17-Day Honeymoon Japan Itinerary

My wife and I just got back from our 17-day honeymoon in Japan. It was a life-changing trip that combined incredible food, beautiful hotels, amazing shopping and breath-taking sites. On our trip, we visited Tokyo, Yugawara, Osaka, Miyakojima, and Kyoto. We explored big cities, small villages and an island resort. When researching Japan, we struggled to find the same level of detail as you would traveling in the US or Europe and could visit eater for food reviews or condé nast for reliable hotel recommendations. It wasn’t that information was sparse, just not as digestible as we were used to. Therefore, we wanted to create the ultimate guide for anyone looking to plan their honeymoon to Japan

Trip Overview

Tokyo: Day 1-5 - Stay at The Tokyo Edition, Ginza

Yugawara: Day 5-6 - Stay at Tsubaki Onsen (Ryokan)

Osaka: Day 6-7 - Stay at Osaka Station Hotel

Miyakojima: Day 7-11 - Stay at The Rosewood Miyakojima HIGHLY RECOMMEND!!

Kyoto: Day 11-17 - Stay at Hotel the Mitsui

 

Top Tips

The Food:

Food is 95% of the reason why we decided to celebrate our honeymoon in Japan, so I did a TON of research to find the best spots for every meal. We wanted to plan 50% of our meals and leave the other 50% for walk-ins. As I mentioned previously, it is harder to find restaurants - as many hole in the wall places don’t have an online presence AND are not on street level, so hard to find like you might in Europe, so this strategy was difficult. To help navigate, our two best resources became Tablelog and Michelin Guide.

Tablelog is Japan’s version of Yelp, but it’s ACTUALLY trustworthy. This is only used by locals and they give detailed reviews, pictures and ratings. On Tablelog, anything over a 3.5/5 is amazing, so DO NOT be alarmed. This was an amazing tool and helped us discover incredible, local spots where we were the only tourists.

The other resource we used was Michelin Guide. They had a guide for Tokyo and Kyoto which was helpful to have a reputable, Western description of top-rated spots. This had more high0end spots, but some neighborhood spots as well. We would recommend leveraging both when planning your trip. I would caution against the viral TikTok spots. While some of them were good, the lines were insane and not worth it, in my opinion. Many (as you will learn later on) had alternative ways to get the same great bites.

If you are gluten free, Japan is more difficult than you might expect. Almost every sushi spot uses soy in their rice, so you need to specify even if it doesn’t look like there is sauce in the dish. With that being said, people are EXTREMELY attentive to the issue. We recommend having your hotel write a small note card, describing your allergy which you can hand to the chef or waiter at each restaurant.

 

Tokyo: Day 1-5

The Hotel: The Tokyo Edition, Ginza

We stayed at The Tokyo Edition, Ginza. There are two Editions in Tokyo (the other is in a business district, so make sure you book the right one). The hotel is nestled in the heart of the Ginza shopping district. It is like the 5th ave or Rodeo drive of Tokyo. There are a lot of western stores, but the location is very convenient (10 min walk from Tokyo station), quiet and VERY clean. We upgraded to a superior king room which was gorgeous - especially the bathroom. Every day we got a fun snack (fresh fruit or chocolate) in our room. I not sure if that was just because it was our honeymoon, but it was a nice perk.

The Edition has two bars - the 2nd floor Punchroom and 14th floor rooftop bar. We visited both on our stay - preferring the vibe of Punchroom. We ate breakfast each morning at the Sophie restaurant on the 13th floor. Breakfast was included in stay, and was amazing every morning. You had the option between Western and Japanese entree + the extensive buffet selection. Very solid and amazing service.

The gym was small but functional. It had a technogym bike, and rowing machine, but no treadmill. Maybe an issue for some, but I preferred to run outside, around the Imperial Palace Grounds.

The staff was extremely attentive. They remember our names, dietary restrictions and needs and always followed up via email or WhatsApp.

The Food:

Food in Tokyo was incredible, if you know where to look. Many top restaurants and local spots are hidden on the 4th floor of office buildings or shopping malls. But WOW did we have some amazing bites…

Lunch/Snacks

  • Wagyu Ichinoya Asakua - You will probably see their sister restaurant ALL over TikTok. This spot is just around the corner and is just as good with no line. Get the set wagyu box and thank me later

  • Tsujiki Market - What we found was that all the people congregated around the food stalls, but the vendors in the professional market were empty, yet had great quality fish. We built a lunch set up and ventured to the roof (pro tip!) to have a quiet sushi picnic lunchTokyo Juice

  • Azabudai Market - Like Bon Marche in Paris! Super high end and good lunch post TeamLabs

  • Harajuku Gyrozaru - Good for a quick gyoza snack near Shubiya

  • Savoy - Famous pizza place, we went to the Azabu Hills location which wasn’t too busy at 12pm

  • Tokyo Juice - great smoothie place with homemade almond milk

Dinner

  • Sushi Ishiyama- excellent omakase. Would definitely recommend. We were the only Americans. Gluten-free friendly!

  • Maz - a super inventive Peruvian tasting menu. Some of the best flavors I've ever had. Each course corresponds with a different altitude - from -30m below sea level to +3250 above. Don’t sleep on the non-alcoholic pairing!

  • Sake No Ana Ginza - Tablelog find with a great sake collection

Bars

  • Little Smith - Traditional Japanese style bar with no menu - you tell the bartender what flavor you like!

Coffee & Matcha

  • Koffee Mameya - A must if you are a coffee drinker - omakase cofee experience in a tiny little space

  • Ogawa Coffee - Cool coffee lab in Azabu Hills mall

The Sites & Neighborhoods:

When you travel somewhere new, there is a tendency to check off every box from every travel guide. We try to refrain from that approach, preferring to explore underrated neighborhoods, site and scenes that are bit off the beaten path. Still, there are a few sites in Tokyo that are a must. On our first day in Tokyo (and in Kyoto), we had a tour guide through get your guide. We would definitely recommend this approach to get a lay of the land and ground yourself in a new place. This list is by no means definitive, but would recommend hitting 3-4 per day, working into the neighborhoods you want to explore.

Recommended Itinerary: (each is 1 day)

  • Central/North East Tokyo - Imperial Palace Grounds, Akihabara (electronics district), Asakusa (old district with Sensoji Shrine), Kappabashi Dougo (Kitchen street!)

  • West Tokyo - Omotesando (Vintage Shopping at Amore, Casanova, Qoo), Shibuya Crossing

  • Southern Tokyo - Tsujiki Fish Market, Tokyo Tower Park, TeamLabs Borderless, Azabudai Plaza (super cool mall & market),  Hamarikyu Gardens

  • Off the Beaten Path - Ueno Park, Yanaka, Sugamo, Hebimichi, Koenji, Shijuku

 

Tokyo Recap:

Musts: 

  1. Maz - Dinner

  2. Sushi Ishiyama- Dinner

  3. Koffee Mameya- Coffee

  4. Savoy- Lunch

  5. Sake No Ana (Ginza) - Izakaya

  6. Wagyu Ichinoya Asakusa - Lunch

  7. Omotesando Hills - best neighborhood to walk in (my opinion).

  8. Team Labs- worth doing, it’s not life changing but it's a nice activity. 

Not a Must but if you are in area:

  1. Little Smith - Bar 

  2. Harajuku Gyrozaru - Gyoza 

  3. Iroriya Higashiginza - izakaya in Ginza

  4. [lunch place with guide] - local eats if you find yourself in that neighborhood. Best miso soup we have ever had.

  5. Jikko - knife store, few locations around Japan

  6. Hamarikyu Gardens- this was an underrated garden in our opinion. If you have time, it’s very peaceful and pleasant.

 

Ryokan Experience (Yugawara): Day 5-6

The Hotel: Tsubaki Onsen

We stayed at the Tsubaki Onsen which was situated up in the hills above Yugawara. The hotel is a short (20 min) cab ride from Atami station which conveniently services bullet trains from Tokyo. We took a morning train from Tokyo and had lunch in the cute little fishing village of Atami. We went to an incredible Teishoku (set menu) lunch spot called XXX, where we were the only tourists they had ever seen. After lunch, we called a cab up to the Ryokan.

The Ryokan is incredibly quiet and serene. Upon arrival, you take off your shoes and are served a beautiful cup of team and sweets. We had originally booked a traditional room with futon beds, but ended up paying the extra $30 for a western style room (ultimately a good call). Our room came with an outdoor onsen tub which we used that afternoon. We went and checked out the “grand bath” but it wasn’t that grand and was separated by gender, so only lasted 7 min. Then, we waited… Not a ton to do from 3-6:30 for dinner. We ended up having some good conversation and some much needed phone time after a week of exploring non-stop. Dinner was an event. 15 different little seasonal dishes all with flavors and textures we have never had before known as Kaiseki. We have a pic of the dish and menu somewhere. There was a miso broth hotpot to finish that we think about to this day. Breakfast was much of the same - maybe different exotic flavors and textures.

As an American, this was an experience that everyone we spoke to said we could not miss. For us, it is likely a one-time experience. I think it is described as this thing that is so central to their culture, therefore any traveller has to experience it, but I don’t actually think that is the case. If baths and relaxing are something you enjoy - definitely check it out. But, you can get the experience of a tea ceremony and traditional Kaiseki meal elsewhere on your journey.

Osaka: Day 6-7

The Hotel: Osaka Station Hotel

We stayed at the Osaka Station hotel, located right next to Osaka station. Important note - this is at Osaka Station, NOT Shin-Osaka (the Osaka Shinkansen station). This hotel was gorgeous, with a lobby on the 29th floor. Not very expensive, but felt very luxurious with one of the best hotel breakfasts we have seen in our lives - make sure to save room! We only spent 12 hours in Osaka as it served as a bridge to our next location, so giving you the quick food highlights

The Food:

  • Lunch: TBD - Amazing Pork Katsu Sando. The only time I ate on the street all trip!

  • Bar: Craftroom - located in the basement of the JR rail station, this 8 seat bar is ranked #28 for the best bars in Asia

  • Dinner: TBD - The best little yakitori restaurant, hidden away down an alley. Like many of the spots we found on Tablelog, we were the only Americans.

Miyakojima: Day 7-11

The Hotel: Rosewood Miyakojima

Rosewood Miyakojima opened in April 2025, just 2 months before we arrived in early June. Situated on the one of the most southernly islands in the Okinawa prefecture, Miyakojima is a paradise - much closer to Taiwan than Tokyo. This property was Rosewood’s first in Japan and a welcome addition to the beautiful island. Miyakojima is a coral island, unlike the rest of Japan which means it has pristine white sand beaches and the brightest blue water I have ever seen. Strangely, Miyakojima is not very built up, given its incredible natural beauty. From our research, there was only one other luxury property on the island, Iraph Sui, but it doesnt even come close. Rosewood is known for incorporating local style, culture and architecture into all of their properties and this was no exception. Designed by Piet Bon Studios, the 55 villa resort is slung low across the coastline, meaning every villa has unobstructed views of the ocean.

Upon arriving, we were given a local Miyako cold tea, and ushered to take a seat while the international staff checked us in. Then, we were taken by golf cart to our villa (Dai 5) and given a tour of our room. The room had a king bed overlooking our terrace, private pool, steam shower, massive tub, walk in closet and more. Truly the most spectacular room we have ever had.

Rosewood Miyakojima is a small resort, but there was plenty to do, eat and drink for our 3 night stay.

Activities

The pace was a welcome reprieve from our previous week of non-stop exploring. Our days consisted of a workout in the state of the art gym, breakfast by the pool, lounging at the beach, and afternoons at our private villa. We also had a chance to borrow bikes to check out the island, including a very famous and spectacular rock formation and took kayaks in to the crystal clear bay. There were numerous hikes around the island that we considered, but without a car (and motivation!) we took this time to hang out on the property

The Food

The food at Rosewood Miyakojima was incredibly fresh, local and a welcome change from our other destinations. At the time of our visit, they had 3 restaurants open, with a fourth scheduled for early July.

  • Nagi - The main restaurant on the property was billed as “Italian” but was really just a fresh, local selection of means and fish. We went here 2 of the 3 nights, and had plenty to choose from.

  • Maas - This was the seafood and sashimi restaurant on property. Perched up above the pool area, this spot was quaint, light but super super fresh, highlighting seafood caught right out in the bay.

  • Yukuu - The beachside restaurant was perfect for lunch. We could order from one of the staff and fresh sandwiches, salads and more were brought directly to our lounge chairs. We found you could also order off the XXX menu and they could accomodate. This was also the bar where we would have drinks before dinner.

We were told the fourth restaurant will be a sushi restaurant and will be secluded on the other side of the resort. We saw the space when we went out on kayaks - looks spectacular!

The Spa

We had a chance to check out the spa when we went to borrow bikes. We did not do a treatment, but the full list of treatments can be found here. We were invited to check out the thermal bathes which FAR exceeded anything we saw at our Ryokan experience. We are not spa people, but would could absolutely see how this would be an beautiful setting for a massage.

This whole experience was a splurge, don’t get me wrong, but for a honeymoon it was perfect. You felt like you were in the Maldives or Hawaii, despite being a 2 hour flight from the main island. We paid for 2 nights, and got the 3rd free. With that deal, it’s actually a pretty good value compared to other luxury properties. We agreed that this place is going to blow up, so book soon!!

Kyoto: Day 11-17

The Hotel: Hotel the Mitsui

Located steps away from Nijo Castle, Hotel the Mitsui is an oasis in the middle of Kyoto. Hidden from the street, you enter a small driveway before passing through a sliding glass door into the lobby. The lobby is quaint, but opens up on the most incredible courtyard with calming gardens and reflecting pools. The main windows are fully retractable, allow you to walk right out into the courtyard. It feels like you’re walking into a painting - it feels illegal. The service was incredibly attentive - as soon as we walked in were offered water and a welcome drink, before dealing with check in formalities in lounge chairs facing the courtyard.

The room was cozy, but luxurious. A long hallway opens up to the bed and sitting area. The narrow, but well appointed bathroom ran alongside. We had a view of the street, but never heard noises from outside. The bed was by far the most comfortable of the trip. Japanese beds tend to be more firm, while this was definitely more western. The space had nice, moody lighting that was great when we returned home after a long day exploring.

The gym and spa were located on the basement level. The gym was nice, nothing special equipped with state-of-the art Technogym equipment. The real star of the show was the thermal baths. Free to use, these baths were co-ed (unlike the Ryokan) and fed from a natural hot spring. We are not spa people, but this was magical.

There are two restaurants on property, but we only went for drinks and breakfast. Located on the first floor, the restaurant had a similar moody vibe to the rest of the space. Great for drinks - the bartenders loved to chat! The real highlight of breakfast was the ability to sit outside on the courtyard. We had great weather in Kyoto (except for day 1!) so this was a perk. Similar to all of the other hotels, our breakfast was included in the rate and came with a selection from the entrees and a full buffet.

The Food

The food scene in Kyoto was a little bit easier to navigate than Tokyo. Most restaurants were on ground level (given that it is an older city) so it was easier to peek in and get a sense of the vibe. This wasn’t always the case, though, as some of must tries were off the beaten path.

Lunch/Snack

  • Juu-Go Soba - As seen on Somebody Feed Phil, this tiny 8 seat shop is operated by it’s owner who grows, mills, and makes the 100% buckwheat (Gluten-free!) noodles all on his own. All you get is noodles and dipping sauce. Very simple, but appreciate the product.

  • Kaiten Sushi Ginza Onodera - If you don’t get the chance to go in Tokyo, make sure you get to this spot in Kyoto. We were expecting sushi revolving on a conveyor belt - far from that. You order on an iPad and the perfectly made pieces shoot out on a conveyor belt, fresh, right to your seat. It felt like an efficient Sugarfish. Some of the best sushi of the trip

  • Katsukura Tonkatsu - Crispy, tender, flavorful tonkatsu with a dipping sauce you grind yourself. Recommend going to the location at Tokyo Station to avoid the crowds.

  • Veg Out - Vegan spot on the banks of the river. Danielle had a nice looking Buddah Bowl

Dinner

  • Monk - WOW Farm to table coursed meal, culminating in pizza. We sat at the counter and watched the chef prepare everything. So simple, you really got to appreciate each vegetable, protein, etc. 

  • Sushi Hayashi - This was 9 seats, amd much less pretentious that the first omakase. We think it was run by a husband and wife who were really cute. The chef’s cousin runs an omakase place in Soho! Chef Hayashi we think on Thompson St. Top bite for both of us was this botan ebi with uni on top. Amazing.

  • Komedokoro Inamoto - Low key, local Izayaka spot. One of the best bites of our trip - chopped tuna and ginger over seasoned rice. We were the only non-japanese there and we loved it

Bars

  • Bar iXey - A traditional Japanese style bar on the 4th floor of an apartment building. Operated by one guy, you tell him what you like and he concocts something unique and delicious. Danielle had a kombu infused vodka martini, I had a yuzu penicillin. So awesome.

  • Sake Bar Yoramu - Sake bar owned by an Israeli guy. Tons of interesting sake, but respect his rules…

Coffee & Matcha

The Sites & Neighborhoods:

It was much easier to navigate Kyoto by foot (with the exception of a few historical sites. Our Itinerary was mostly walking, with occasional ubers to ensure we had enough time to get to everything.

Recommended Itinerary:

  • Higashiyama (with Guide) - Kiyomizu Dera Temple, Kenninji Zen Temple, Gion District, Yasaka Shrine, Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka Street, Houkanji Temple (can be done in a half day)

  • Philosopher’s Path - Juu-Go Soba, Shoindo Ceramics, Kotouen, Breizh Coffee

  • d: Matcha Farm - Half day excursion out of the city to learn about the matcha growing and roasting process. Great experience!

  • Shopping - Nishiki Market, Kanetaka Cutlery, Pottery Tanuki, Mitsuo Ceramics, Kuoe Watches

  • Other Sites - Nijo Castle, Hein Shrine, Fushimi Inari (far away and busy!),

 

Kyoto Recap:

Musts: 

  1. Monk - Dinner

  2. Komedokoro Inamoto - Dinner

  3. Bar iXey - Drinks

  4. Pottery Shopping

  5. Kanetaka Cutlery

Not a Must but if you are in area:

  1. Juu-Go - Lunch

  2. Sushi Hayashi

  3. d:Matcha Farm